| This view of the tailpice shows the method of fastening the strings and leading them over the rim of the banjo | ![]() |
| Side view - Because the pot is round and the tailpiece is not, a shaped washer is cut out of sapele and inserted between the two. It also serves the purpose of distancing the tailpiece out from the pot, giving a gap in which the tone ring can slide. | ![]() |
| Here is a shot of the assembled banjo that shows the coordinator rod and tailpiece fastenings in detail.
The tailpiece is locked firmly to the pot by the nut (and washer) on the inside. The bolt then continues through into the coordinator rod which holds it in position and prevents string tension from distorting the pot. P.S. | ![]() |
| Here is a close-up of the tension clips. These are bent from the same material as the tone and tension rings, 1/2 by 1/8th aluminium bar.
I use a bench vice to bend these by hand, The curve of the 'hook' is formed by bending at right angles then peening down with a hammer over a 1/8th steel bar. The resulting hook is then trimmed with a hacksaw and file.
If anyone wants precise step-by-step instructions on how I do the bends, drop me a line | ![]() |
| The pegs are turned by hand on a lathe. To get the taper right, I do a little experimenting with scrap until I get the angle
I want then take a 'sight' on a point on the far wall where my chisel is pointing to get the right angle. The angle isn't half as critical as you might think because the pegs tend to ream out their own hole taper quite quickly.
To make the corresponding holes I use a taper reamer (1 in 20) that I made myself. I just used my metal lathe to cut a 1.5 degree taper out of stainless steel bar then cut a spiral groove down it with a hacksaw. Mounted in a bench drill it makes taper holes perfectly easily although it does make the wood smoke a bit if I really lean on it. | ![]() |